Geography · Oceanography
Ocean waves break as they approach the shoreline primarily because:
Verified Solution4 OptionsUpdated: October 2026👁️1 View
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- 1Water is pulled down by gravity as wave steepness exceeds a critical limit in shallow water.✓
- 2Friction with seabed causes refraction of wave trains.
- 3Speed of wave movement exceeds the speed of wave-induced currents.
- 4Rotational speed of water particles exceeds wave velocity.
Correct answer
Water is pulled down by gravity as wave steepness exceeds a critical limit in shallow water.
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